Monday, September 21, 2015

Basics 101 of a Pig on the Homestead -by Commando Bacon

Basics 101 on Pigs -by Commando Bacon

Pigs. We all like bacon, right? But with prices varying from $7-9/lb, filled with crap you don’t want your family eating, why trust the stores if you can figure it our yourself. Right? So what does a pig for the family need? Below are a list of the basics to get ya started. If you have any more, shout out! 

Shelter: Look at the laws in your county as to what is required for shelter FIRST. You might be surprised what you find, cheaper to do it the right way the first time. But basically…nothing fancy. A wind/shelter break that is on 3 sides filled with straw will do fine. Remember to add more straw if it gets really frigid where you live—remember, you want GOOD results in quality of taste right? So plan to get your hog early spring and in the freezer by hot season. Or start late Spring and then off to freezer camp in the fall. 

Fencing: Pigs root. Get a nose ring on that thing! There are variable kinds. Jeffers.com has a lot to choose from. They will root out from under a fence easily. OR use hotwire. You don’t want to see Porky running up the county road! Make sure you can keep a pig in your area, correct zoning is key!

Vaccines: Are you taking this pig to the farmer’s market or the fair? Then ya gotta get vaccines. If not, then Lepto is all I recommend for breeding stock (meaning the parents you are wintering over and breeding again. IF you are not breeding, don’t worry about it). But remember, worms live in the meat of a pig and can be transferred to the human. So start a good worming schedule and keep that meat healthy for your family. A stool sample to your vet or learn to do it yourself will tell you what kind ya need and how much.

Feed: Pigs eat anything. Feed em. To start off with, get them weaned onto a 20% protein food till they are about 40-60lbs, then drop it to a 16% protein level till about 2 weeks. Then, to finish it out, you want to feed  corn and bean meal mixture of 16% protein to corn ratio. All are on a twice daily schedule for these grain mixes. You will want to feed all scraps and anything else to fill it up in the middle! This is the number #1 pigs dig out—they will go off to forage for themselves if you don’t! So feed it, and feed it well. Pigs can be free range field bigs—cleaner and smell less. Grass fed also brings more on the pound. Or if you want a fat pig faster, confine it to an area you can clean and keep it from burning off calories.

Breeding: Your breeding stock (as mentioned) should be vaccinated for Lepto. Nature is cruel, a lot of the sows will squish the babies and well, that’s that. Prepare yourself and budget for loss. 

On a scale of hard to easy, remember these 3 things: 

#1 if one can raise a Labrador you can raise a pig.
#2 use you head, pigs dig if you are not going to feed, it will feed itself

#3 breed does not matter, all pigs have pork...

Friday, September 18, 2015

BLOOD TYPING 101 -By Independent Twist

OK, I'm about to go old school on you. When you think of surviving anything what do you think of? Storing food, water, weapons, ammo, medical supplies, currency of some sort, hygiene supplies, or comfort supplies? Do you ever think with all those medical emergencies that you will incur that you will at some point need blood? It is really the one thing you need to consider. First, do you know your blood type? If you don't count the disease/infection as something to rule out, 93% of the population can't receive blood from just anyone. (If you do look at disease or infection your chances of getting any blood is severely diminished.) Did you know that receiving the wrong type of blood can cause both an anaphylactic reaction (shock caused by an allergen) and rupture (they really blow apart) of any red blood cells you currently have in your body. The red blood cells carry oxygen, no O2, no life. Both cause death within minutes and are hard to treat in even the best stocked emergency department. With the proper treatment if caught in time, anaphylaxis can be treated but we still loose people to this reaction everyday from things as simple as peanuts. Rupture of the blood cells cannot be treated. Once they are dead, they are dead. We treat by knowing the early signs of reaction, stopping the transfusion, and pushing large amounts of saline. Missing even the smallest first reaction that is not noticeable by the naked eye will kill you. If you don't know your blood type, go get tested now. You can donate blood and they will tell you. You can ask your doctor to check on your next lab draw. Or you can seek out a lab or test of your own. Keep in mind that some “at home” tests are as reliable as dollar store pregnancy tests... I prefer the Eldon home kit for accuracy and long term storage for emergency uses:http://www.bta-mall.com/product_detail.php… You need to know if you are A, B, AB, or O. (If you have type K you already know the meaning and there is no help outside of your own family. So hit them up for blood, you already know they'll be a match.) Then you need to know if you are Rh + or Rh-. Rh- people can only receive Rh- blood, Rh+ can receive both Rh+ and Rh-.
{A+ people can receive blood from A+ or A-, O+ or O-. They can give blood to only A+ or AB+ people} 

{A- can receive blood from A- or O- only. They can give blood to A+, A–, AB+, or AB-.}
(B+ people can receive blood from B+, B–, O+, or O-. They can give blood to B+ or AB+ only.}
{B- can only receive B- and O-. They can give blood to B+, B–, AB+, or AB-.}
{AB+ are the lucky universal receivers. They can only give to AB+ though.}
{AB- can receive A-, B-, AB-, or O-. They can only give to AB+ or AB-.}
{O+ can only receive O+ or O-. They can give to A+, B+, AB+, or O+}
{O- can only receive O-. They are the nice universal donors though.}

Labs use ABO(H) grouping antisera as a medium to tell what type of blood you have. It is mass produced, frozen, and hard to have if you have no electric. Without knowing your blood type before hand, you can test another person on an emergency basis only without the antisera. I say only emergencies because this is in no way a guarantee of a perfect match but will warn you of some possible mismatches beforehand. Even with what looks like a perfect match in a lab, there are still life threatening reactions to receiving some blood. You will need a clean white tile, antiseptic (like alcohol), and something to puncture the skin for blood. Lets say you have 3 people willing to donate for 1 person that needs blood. Use antiseptic one everyones fingers (bacteria can change results). Puncture the recipients finger and let 4 drops of blood hit the tile in separate areas. Puncture each donors finger and put one drop of their blood on one of the recipients blood drop leaving one just the recipients blood. Wait 5-20 minutes for results. 5 minutes will be less accurate but useful for emergent cases while 20 minutes would give the best results. If it clumps in less than 5 minutes it is not a match and will lead to a deadly reaction. If it separates the red cells and the serum you don't want to use it. If it looks the same or dries without clumping or separating after 20 minutes you have the best match. Another trick we use if the recipient just needs more blood volume but still retains enough blood product to survive is to give them large amounts of normal saline. To make this, you will need to stay as sterile as possible. The water needs to be boiled with the salt in it then returned to room temp before giving it. The ratio is ½ a teaspoon of salt with NO iodine per 8oz/1c. 1L or 1000mL is usually used to replace volume in adults (20mL per kg) (1kg=2.2lbs), children can suffer from fluid overload quickly so you really need to watch the measurements for the fluid based on weight. The solution only lasts a maximum of 24 hours because it is the perfect environment for bacteria to grow. Anything introduced into the veins grows faster, effects you more, and is harder to treat. I hope you will never need to know any of this. With a standing health and electrical system, you won't. If SHTF, you will be glad you did know.

~Independent Twist

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Who is Unicoi Ludd?






Unicoi Ludd is the pseudonym of a Woodwright who maintains historic buildings in Columbia, S.C. He is committed to practicing traditional techniques and too teaching others how to use those skills in their day to day lives. He is a member of The Early American Industries Association and The Mid-West Tool Collectors Association and has written for magazines such as Backwoods Home and Self Reliance. He and his wife divide their time between a hobby farm in S.C. and an off-grid homestead to be in T.N.

Monday, September 14, 2015

Who is Commando Bacon?

Who is Commando Bacon? 

We all know him as Dan, a wild man on the "net" that expresses his opinions clearly and in his words "black and white." A good sense of humor in both the give and take realm, that is somewhat rough around the edges (but we suspect has a good heart). But talk to him, his wisdom in farming comes from years of experience doing things as only Dan can--sarcastically and with humor. 

A true American at heart, Dan believe in family values and good work ethics, he says he is "Only liberal about one thing, and that's religion, because it's all in your own beliefs." Dan grew up in a farm/ranch family that ran strictly cattle, horses, a few birds, and hogs on the side. This is following 7 generations of Americans that originally came from Germany to work in the coal mines until the 1920s when things went bust and then farming became Dan's family way of living. 

Today, Dan has his own little homestead in Iowa with 2 kids, 5 cows, 7 sows, and a zoo of poultry. Besides his personal homestead, Dan manages a family operation of 2,000 acres of corn, beans, and hay while wrangling 300 mama cows with calves that the ranch raises to finish. 



-Commando Bacon

Sunday, September 6, 2015

Confused by Canning? (Basics 101 for beginners) -by Independent Twist

Confused by canning???
Are you confused by canning with the “official” canning guides being 50+ pages and all contradicting each other? Does it look really scary with all the ways you can screw up? Not to fear, we have your answers tried and true. Let me start by saying that canning is a lot like farming. It costs a pretty penny to start, there will be mistakes, it's hard work, and it's very rewarding. There are many things to look at when you decide to start because they will effect your method of canning. What am I canning? Is my produce heirloom, hybrid, or GMO? Cold or hot pack? What is pectin? What kind of jars/lids? What kind of canner should I use? The list goes on and on. All of these things need to be considered to avoid risk to your health. If done properly, canning can be a great way to extend your produce life and be self sustaining. No matter where you look, everyone has their own opinion and disagreements about what and how you can can. This is my take on canning. Let's get on with the most common questions:
1) What is canning and why should I try it?
~Canning is an older form of preserving food to be shelf stable. Canning can relieve stress and help you become more self sufficient especially in the winter time.
2) How much does it cost to start or maintain canning?
~I am not going to lie, it costs a pretty penny if you buy everything new to start. A good pressure canner costs about $100, 12 pack of pint jars is $8-$12, lids are $2-$3 (12 pack), kit (for ease like jar lifter) $12-$15, food (like sugar, salt, pectin, spices, etc...) can cost as little or as much as you want. There are ways to reduce the costs but I'll address them later.
3) What can I can?
~Just about anything you want. I can meat, fish, pickled products, soups, meals, veggies, fruit, jams, jellies, preserves, broths, etc...
4) What can't I can?
~The green skin on potatoes, items already starting to spoil, mashed items (bacteria in air gets trapped in and the heat can't penetrate deep enough to kill it), and some sources say onions (even though I process over 100 pints of beefy french onion soup a year with great success).
5) What should I try to can first?
~Most people start off with jellies because they are easiest and can be processed with the water bath method.
6) Why does it matter if my fruit/veggies are heirloom, hybrid, or GMO?
~Heirloom produce has what you would consider normal acid levels for each item (ie: tastes acidic so it is acidic like citrus or tomatoes). Hybrids are made by either splicing two roots/branches together to change the properties (flavor, heartiness) or by cross pollinating. Hybrids are usually closer to heirloom acid levels but may have a lower acid level despite taste. If you are unsure about the acid level you can always test it with a pH strip found anywhere that sells fish or pool products. GMO is a process of changing the DNA in a seed. One of the most popular items canned that *must* change the method of canning because it is GMO is tomatoes. The acid in regular tomatoes was causing acid reflex in many people so they couldn't eat them. GMO tomatoes are made to taste similar while drastically reducing the acid level forcing what would normally be a water bath method item to now be a pressure canned item. I'm not going to debate GMO's as good or bad, but this move by them was to “allow people with acid reflex to enjoy tomatoes and tomato products”.
7) What is pectin? Why use it?
~Pectin is a gelatin product. It comes in powder and “liquid” forms. The easiest way to use it is to get the single portion boxes (about the size of jello boxes). It is used to form a texture like jello, or jelly. It is naturally found in some fruit and is what we use to thicken fluids for people having trouble swallowing. In some cases you can drastically reduce the amount of sugar in a recipe when using pectin. It is used in most jellies made today.
8) What kind or size of jars and lids should I use? Is there a difference between brands?
~The size depends on what you are canning. Jellies and jams are usually in half pints or pints. Pickles are usually in quarts or half gallons. I like meats in pints for the distribution of heat while others use smaller. You don't want to go much larger than a pint with meat because of the denseness (90min process time @ 15#). Fruits and veggies depend on how much you think you will use after opening and before spoiling. Because fruits and veggies are big in my house I use quarts knowing that they will go quickly. I like soups and stews in pint and a half size (little harder to find). Remember that size does matter. If the jar is too big and processing time short (10-20 min) the heat may not get hot enough for long enough in the center of the jar to kill bacteria. There is a difference between brands. Great Value jars hold up well but their lids are crap for sealing and require preheating. Ball has always been great but they just changed the seal so you are no longer to preheat the lids. Preheating the new Ball lids will result in seal failure. Kurr is another really great brand. They cost more than Ball and Great Value but I have never had a single failed seal through them.
***PSA: You can reuse jars and rings but NEVER reuse lids! Check rims on jars and rings for dents, rust, and chips. If any are found DO NOT use. Botulism will not pop seals every time, doesn't often smell, doesn't often taste bad, and will kill you slowly and painfully!*
9) What kind of canner do I need?
~This is more simple than everyone makes it sound. High acid foods can be water bath canned. Water bath is basically boiling water that is at least 2” above the top of the jars (stock pot) and has a rack on the bottom. Don't have a rack? Throw in a dish towel to prevent the jars from touching the bottom. Low acid foods require pressure canning. A pressure cooker and a pressure canner is the same thing. Don't pay more because it says canner. Make sure it has a flexible seal under the lid, weight (black knob thing) or gauge if you can get one (better than a weight because it shows exact pressure), pressure release valve (some are black round rubber looking and others are metal that slips back and forth easily when the lid is not in use), and rack in the bottom. A large pressure canner can be used for both water bath (remove lid) and pressure canning (I have several).
10) Can I stack jars in my canner to have larger batches?
~Yes, with the proper water level and a rack (comes in canners) between bottom row and top row.
11) I have looked everywhere and can't find out exactly how much water to put in my canner...
~For a water bath canner you want to cover the upper most jar lid by at least 2” of water. Watch this level with longer processing times and add more if it starts to get too low. Always have the lids covered with water for water bath. For a pressure canner, you want 2-3” of water total after the jars are placed in the canner (Do not cover jars).
12) Hot or cold pack?
~Boy oh boy! The great debate boils down to your preference but either way you have to make sure your recipe is adjusted for the heat difference. I personally hot pack most items. Not only does that prevent the jars from breaking when placed in the prewarmed water, it also reduces the time to get the jar up to temp. Most of my recipes call for hot pack. If all else fails, use what was called for in your recipe.
13) I am scared to try canning because of what I have heard about Botulism. How do you avoid it? What creates it?
~Botulism is a toxin caused by clostridiun botulinum spores. Proper canning can avoid it. You need to process items for the full time, wash anything raw before it is placed in the jars, check seals after they have cooled, and process using the correct method (low acid=pressure canner, high acid=water bath. You can process high acid in a pressure canner as well if you want.). If the seal isn't intact, there is mold, or it smells funny do not consume. When opening canned items, reheat thoroughly after checking for spoilage.
14) How do I know that it is sealed?
~Your first check is to listen for the “pops” when the jars are cooling. Every canner gets a little delight every time one pops. It sounds similar to opening a jar of pickles from the store. Second check is to press lightly in the center of the lid, if it bounces one way or another it is not sealed (it works like the pop of a jar from the store to let you know someone already opened it). Third check is when you go to open it. If the lid is loose it is a bad sign (it should be tough to get off). I like to store my jars without the rings so it is easier to do the third check. The ring can keep an unsealed lid in place and make it mimic a sealed jar.
15) Wait, are pressure canners dangerous?
~Despite urban legions, they are quite safe if used properly now a days. They used to have screw in locks and clogged pressure release valves that would cause them to explode under the pressure. Make sure your valve moves easily when the lid is not in use and watch your pressure levels. Pressure levels for recipes are not high enough to cause an issue if your release valve is functioning properly.
More tips:
*”Finger tighten” in the instructions means that a 2 year old can unscrew it. Never fully tighten the ring while canning. If you want it tight you can tighten it after the jar cools and seals.
*Wipe a butter knife around the edge inside the jar to remove air bubbles that harbor bacteria before canning.
*Wipe rims clean and leave proper head space before canning.
*”Head space” is empty space between the top of your fluid and the top of the rim.
*Never oven can.
*Watch your pots, pressure, and boil while canning.
*Cover canned jars loosely with a towel to prevent drafts and breaking of glass from sudden temperature changes after pulling them from the canner. Also, place a towel under the jars to avoid cold counters doing the same thing.
*Let the pressure canner vent for 10 minutes before timing for your recipie. This allows it to reach the proper temperature.
*Allow the pressure to release itself from a pressure canner, do not force it to happen quicker.
*Check both vent and gauge on pressure canners for blockages.
*Rotate stock so your jars are not going bad in the back.
*Invest in a cheap jar lifter (Ball brand is $8), your fingers will love you for it!
*Wash everything before and after use.
*Label jars with name of food and month/year date for ease.
*Store in cool dry place.
Do you have more tips, tricks, or common questions for the beginner canner? Post in the comments and we'll add them to this post on the blog. Let us know if you want credit for the tip, and if so, under what name.
For the advanced canners, we will have a follow up post for the harder to find canning information and what has changed in canning in the past 100 years next week. Get your questions ready!

Friday, September 4, 2015

Processing a Deer -by Independent Twist

Soon enough it will be time to put some deer in the freezer. Now those that already hunt may have a system to process set up already, but what about those new to hunting or new to processing? This may not get you to be a professional processor, but it will get you on your way to saving money and having the cuts you want. https://youtu.be/H2UsVd9d8vI




Processing a Chicken -By Independent Twist

Processing Chickens

To include cull (you can pluck by hand)*: https://youtu.be/_lxm3Y0j_NI
For detailed gutting*: https://youtu.be/b-Up-sieSu4
Butcher*: https://youtu.be/xRAFMFc-z-Y

Common Questions and Answers

1) I have an older bird I wanted to process but was told he would be tough. Is there anything I can do?
  • There are two reasons a bird becomes tough, one is good muscle tone due to old age and the other is because it was cooked during rigor. (Rigor sets in in 1-12 hours.) To make sure that you will get a tender bird every time I suggest placing it in a brine and letting it rest in the fridge or ice filled cooler for 48-72 hrs. I prefer 72 hrs for older birds.
2) When I processed my bird he either had too much of or not enough of meat or fat. How do I increase or decrease either?
  • Feeding high protein (20% or higher) feed will increase the muscle mass (meat) on the bird. Feed 16% protein feed for less muscle. Remember: The smaller the intake of protein, the longer it takes to grow out. Giving cracked corn along with feed everyday for the last two weeks will increase the amount of fat on the bird. I usually don't feed corn outside of this time because I like the ratio this gives.
3) When is the right time to process a rooster?
  • As a general rule of thumb Cornish in 8-12 weeks, Freedom Rangers in 3-4 months, and Heritage varieties anytime you want except within a few weeks of puberty.
4) How do I know when puberty is?
  • You will smell it! Pick up the live bird and have a whiff, if it stinks to the point where you don't want to taste the smell, give it a few weeks and try again.
5) I did everything correctly but when I cooked the rooster he tasted like shit. What went wrong?
  • This can be caused by two things, one being that he was in puberty (see # 4) and the other being that you didn't remove the balls before you cooked him. They generally taste like they smell. The "bad" smell and resulting taste is simply the excess hormones in his body.
6) Where are the balls and how do I know I removed them?
  • They are right next to the spine below the lungs. They are shaped like kidney beans and can be anywhere from about that size to the size of marbles. They will still be there when you pull the guts out and very easy to see.