Importance of understand Feed! -by Boots N Lace

Feed is a "hot" topic among farmers and homesteaders. Have you noticed lab results on the back of food and treats? Half that crap, no one knows what it means! Proteins most of us understand--that's what grows muscle. But to much (depending on the animal class) will cause health issues too. To little--the animal will be sluggish and not grow. They need the RIGHT amount for growing AND energy. Pregnancy, the mom needs more. So now you are understanding why this is such a HOT topic! Gotta get it right!

Having this Lab Analysis done on my bakery we serve here to dogs on the Farm, has raised some research on my part I figured I would share with you. The focus for this post is TND. WHAT IS IT? Results from ranchers smarter than me: Total Digestible Nutrients (TDN)

TDN is a measure of the energy value in a feedstuff. The term TDN has its origins in an older system of measuring available energy in feeds and is very hard to measure directly. Today, reported TDN values are calculated, not measured values. Formulas for calculating TDN originally were based on ADF and frequently varied by region and the nutritionist doing the calculation. The National Research Council (NRC) suggested a more accurate and robust procedure of estimating TDN than those based solely on ADF (NRC, 2001). Their procedure is based on the assumption that forage classes (legumes, cool season grasses, warm season grasses, etc.) have more uniform and predictable digestion coefficients. So, they proposed that the TDN for alfalfa, clovers and legume/grass mixtures be calculated as follows....

See the link for more information on the formulas

http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=B1367

Anti-Freeze Pipe Help for the Homestead -The Jester

Guys, winter will eventually be here! I know we all winterize differently depending on where we are , the big tips I can give for the central states are

1 Unscrew your garden hoses(can't tell you how many flooded basements calls I've had because of this one?

2 If you have RV's or any other un climate controlled restrooms, dump some antifreeze down the sinks and anything else with a sewer trap on it.

3 Wrapping outside hydrants like the one below with anything doesn't help, Check out the pic for how they work, Unhook the hose to allow the water to drain out.

4 Shut your foundation vents. Keep that heat in your crawl spaces.

Those are the big ones I can think of off hand. Chime in with what you do beyond this in your areas!

Winterizing the Critters -Charaty Lawson

'Tis the season! Well, yeah, Christmas and New Year's is comin', but on the homestead, this time of year also means something else. With the drifting snow and the falling temps, protecting your critters becomes even more important than usual. Not only do you need to protect your animals from cold weather and all the troubles it brings by itself, you also need to be more aware of predators since their free and easy buffet is drying up. Here's a few quick tips to help you prepare for the winter season. 

Most animals, save for some specialty breeds, do fine in cold weather as long as they have a few simple adjustments....mainly shelter from the rain, snow and wind, adequate food to stoke the internal furnace (the simple act of digesting food creates inner heat that helps the animal make it through the cold better) and easy to access water. A shelter can be as fancy as a barn or as easy as a lean-to, hoop house or in the case of goats and sheep, a dog house. Contrary to popular belief, bigger is not better when it comes to winter shelter...the animal's body heat can actually help heat the structure if it's small enough. Just be sure to give proper bedding, usually hay or straw is good, as both enable the animal to lay or burrow into it and make sure the entrance is situated away from the wind. 

Predators are finding less plentiful food and are starting to eye your livestock and pets more seriously. As a good steward to your critters, you need to make their areas as safe as possible. That could be as easy as shutting the chickens and other birds up in their coops earlier, before the evening's hunt begins or as much work as stringing extra lines of electric fence, beefing up existing fencing or even investing in livestock guardian dogs. Determined predators may even cause a need for hunting and trapping.
Below are a few links to our files and more intensive information on winter care of your pets and livestock.

https://www.facebook.com/notes/twisted-mind-homesteading/basics-101-on-how-to-train-an-lgd-to-protect-your-livestock-by-boots-n-lace/1687733341462953

https://www.facebook.com/notes/twisted-mind-homesteading/how-to-keep-your-livestock-warm-without-looking-like-the-gentle-barn-by-boots-n-/1703397023229918

Putting the Garden to Bed -Mad Potter

Putting the Garden to Bed

Summer has come full circle. The last of the fall cold crops are finishing up. Fall has taken ahold and winter is around the corner. Believe it or not now is the time to start preparing for the coming spring season by putting the garden to bed.

In most of the U.S. gardens have a spell of rest, some more lengthy than others depending on your location. A few things you can do to help insure an easier start next spring when homesteading gets busy are. Garden clean up, remove dead plants and throw them to a new composting site. Put away cages, trellises, hoses, pull stakes from the garden. Make notes of what did well and what needs changed. I always burn tomato plants, helps eliminate blight next season. Blight can over winter in a compost pit and devastate an heirloom crop next year.

See all those leaves in the yard? Don't mulch them collect them and add them to the garden. The fauna in the soil never really rest and will start breaking them down even over the winter.

After cleaning up the garden add the leaf litter you have collected from the yard to the garden. Now its time to add any other amendments you may need or have. A local county extension office can do a soil test for you and is often free. Peat moss, can wait till spring if you have soil that is heavy and compacted like clay. ( also a topic up coming)

Okay we have all the stuff added now lets give it a pass over with the rototiller, by hand if raised beds, or disc it in with the tractor. After tilling spread a layer of manure over the garden if you have it. Let it sit on top over the winter to age. Reserve chicken shit for areas that you plan on growing leafy greens in. The higher nitrogen content will produce leafy growth better than vegetables. (We will get into that later.) For now you're done. Sit back enjoy the holidays, enjoy the can upon can of produce that was put away over the summer.

-Mad Potter

Trapping 102 -by Toe Catch

Baits are just that , a bait. Baits can be broke down into four distinct groups : Food stuffs , Liquid , Paste and Chunked. Depending on animal you are trying to draw in , they can be as simple as a donut , peanut butter , jelly , sardines or an extensively tested and commercially manufactured formula and anything in between. Baits are used year round with great success , for everything from the smallest pest like mice to the largest predators like bears. Baits are used for removing wildlife and pest by Animal control personnel , hunters , fishermen , homeowners and trappers alike. For the purpose of this article I will talk about trapping baits and their uses. Used with or without lures. Let's start with the least used which is liquid baits. Liquid bait is just that a liquid or semi liquid. Liquid are baits that have been ground into liquid form , has additives making it semi liquid or are liquid byproducts of making another bait. Fruit can be ground in a blender to almost pure liquid and then have things like simple peanut oil or glycerine added as an extender and glycol added as an antifreeze agent. This can be used for trapping Raccoon , Muskrat , Opossum , Skunks , Grey & Red Fox and Coyote in cages , dogless , cubbies and dirt hole sets. Another that comes to mind is Horse Hoof liquid which is liquid bait that when used in a dirt hole set will cause every K9 species around to have an extreme digging reaction. Some baits are actually used to catch trapping bait like mice , rats , moles , etc. Then those can be frozen and used whole at a later time or ground into a paste to be mixed with other ingredients to make a predator bait with some to great success. Which brings me to the group of paste baits. Commercial paste baits are usually some type fruit or meat base (either fresh or tainted meats , I'll explain this process later) mixed with glycol's , glycerine , oils , glands , fixatives , extenders , tinctures, etc. Depending on the species or group of species the bait is targeting. A good fruit paste bait is persimmon , the fruit is ground up and mixed with glycol to prevent freezing and lanolin or corn starch to get the consistency desired. Meat paste baits are meat that is ground up and mixed with ground up glands from different species depending targeted species. Mink , Muskrat , Beaver , Skunk , Coyote , Fox and Bobcat glands are all used with great success in paste baits. Mice , Beaver and Bobcat meats are all common meats to be used with glands from Muskrat , Mink and Beaver Castors for an extremely good predator bait and mixed with skunk essence (a little goes an extremely long way) and lanolin or corn starch to get desired consistency and a preservative like sodium benzoate to stop it from aging any farther. Paste baits can be smeared on backing or down a dirt hole which is the most common. Chunk baits are what is typically made by the trapping public meats can be anything , but Fish , Venison , Beaver are the most commonly used. The meat cut into chunks and mixed with sodium benzoate to preserve and a commercial bait solution that already contains all the other ingredients needed for predators and used in dirt hole sets. Meats are used fresh or tainted (aged) both need to be mixed with a preservative like sodium benzoate (SB) to stop the aging (decomposition) process. The (SB) can be mixed as is with the meat , but I have found it reacts fastest if desolved in a small amount of warm water first and then added to the meat. This still takes about an additional three days to be exorbed by the meat so adding it is crucial or the meat will rot and become us less unless you want to catch every opossum within 100 miles. The aging process varies from person to person , but is typically done in a cool dry area away from heat and direct sunlight. A good rule is when it starts to get a slight odor of "Going Bad" it's time to add the preservative and mix in the other solutions and additives. Then allowed to age awhile longer. I will go into further detail in another article on making meat baits. Toe Catch

Trapping 101 -by Toe Catct

Lures and their usage. All wildlife are placed into two categories : Predators or Pray. This will focus on Predators. There are several different reasons to use a lure for trapping. Sexual desire , food , curiosity , calling to name a few. For the purpose of this article I will talk about food , curiosity and calling. Each has their own purpose and when used correctly can help produce great results. First let's discuss food lures. Food lure isn't the same as a food bait. This is exactly what the name implies , it plays on the animals hunger and need for food , through it's nose. A good food lure can target a specific species , yet in many cases will attract multiple species. Of all lures a food grade lure is probably the most used. Lures use the fragrance of food without the actual food. Most use oils and extracts with extenders and fixatives to obtain the fragrance they are after. Oils like Cherry , Anise , Apple , Cheese or extracts like vanilla , peppermint , etc. Are widely used to appeal to species like Raccoon , Bear , Skunk , Etc. Food lures can be used year round with great success , however they will produce different results in the middle of winter than they do in spring and summer. Curiosity lures are used with great success in instances where species are pressured or the typical food lures are not producing the desired results. Curiosity lure contain oils , extracts , glands , extenders and fixatives. They do as the name implies and appeal to the curiosity of the species. Catnip is a good example of a curiosity to predators like Bobcats , Coyote and Grey Fox. Many lure makers use Catnip oil as an ingredient in their curiosity lures that are designed to be used as a "Rub" lure to be used in a rub set causing the animals to want to rub their faces in the lure. Call lures can be broke down into two groups: close range and long distance call (LDC). Many of these use glands , oils , extenders , fixatives and Skunk essence (business end liquid of a skunk) to do exactly as the name implies. The close range call lures can be used year round to appeal to the predatory species with great success. The LDC is best used during winter when the temperature has dropped , predators are on the move looking for a meal and competing for food. LDC are very "Loud and Strong" in fragrance and should be used with care to not be over used , a little goes a very long way and should not be used directly at your set , but used close by to get the predators in the area where the other lures and baits can take over. I personally use them very sparingly and at about head height off the ground on a nearby tree limb. Many LDC lure have a very strong Skunk odor and should not be open indoors , you will regret it and will get very familiar with the dog !!!! When using lures it is best to use them as the manufacturer suggest. They have tested and tried them and know what amount works best. A good rule of thumb is use a "Pea" sized amount. I personally keep Q-tips in with my lures and will dip them in the lure to get the amount of lure desired. I encourage questions about lures and baits and their usage. I will answer them as fast as possible and will do another piece on baits and their usage. Both can be used alone or together along with urine in many sets for trapping. I can't possible put everything into one piece or cover every possible scenario. I will get some photos and videos covering trapping , preperation of equipment , sets , fur handling and the uses of lures and baits as well. Toe Catch

Greeting your dog Pack Style -by Boots N Lace

TRAINING TIP FROM THE PACK:

Ever notice how EVERY time you leave the room you get greeted by your dog excitedly and with an active nose? Why? Well, lets look at the Pack in function....

Your dogs are as happy to come as they are to go here at the Farm. Every time a dog enters the Pack, everyone stops what they are doing and comes to greet. Proper greeting ritual is sniffing and being sniffed. The ritual HAS to take place, or the Pack sees it as a challenge and the non-sniffer gets punished with corrections from the Pack members. (If your dog isn't doing that, that is a behavior that must be addressed from lack of socialization. Call me!) Think of it this way, you go to a co-workers home for dinner, upon entry, you SHAKE HANDS with their family. Why? Because that is proper American custom to meet new people and you are rude if you don't (or ill mannered whichever.) So make sure your dog is sniffing and allowing itself to be sniffed.

When your dog leaves the Pack to go on a walk and comes back, the dogs re-sniff entering member to confirm not only that "yup, it's the same guy" but also to reconfirm dominance pecking order. When there is no challenge by the new enter-er, play resumes back to normal.

So, back to why you get greeted EVERY TIME YOU LEAVE for 5 mins! lol. Your dog wants to not only give you proper ritual, but also make sure that the dominance pecking order rules are STILL the same as when you left. Are you making sure that you are being the Pack Leader EVERY time you enter where your dog is at? Or are you winding their brain up into excitement and making your return a ritual? Remember, if it is all fun and games when you enter the room, it will also be fun and games when your guest come in too. YOU Pack Leader set the example for both. Dogs are not able to know that today is ok but tomorrow is not. It is either all or nothing, you decide.

Happy Sniffing!


smile emoticon

Counter Surfing Dog Correction -by Boots N Lace

Proper Timing and Correction Dog Training Tip:

Many dogs have the poor manners of chins, front paws, or worse ALL 4 paws on the counter/table. Owners then contact me going "Wth? How did he get there? He never did that before!" Sure he did, you just weren't paying attention!

The trick to managing your dogs behavior is EARLY correction. Don't wait for the action of actually jumping or climbing. Correct it at LOOKING or "eyeing." Dogs follow their noses by instinct as that is how they see their world. THEN they eye. Then they put their mouth up there. It takes THOSE steps, but if you weren't paying attention you missed YOUR cue. Once the dog starts, you can't stop them. I then hear "he knows better, he cowers when I scold him." Eh, well, easier to say sorry than get permission right?

To correct looking, a negative tone of "Eh-Eh" is usually enough for most dogs. When I'm training I will even "bait" the dog by putting ham or bacon on the edge of the counter. They have to remain in a sit, stay, and LOOKING AT ME (imperative) before I then give the food to them.

For the more "hell bent" dog, that the above negative don't work on, I use the squirt bottle mixture and hard spray setting. I will advance to an e-collar if the dog has history of counter surfing and wants to get up when my back is turned or I am out of the room (a whole other topic piece.)

Manners Matter!

-Boots N Lace

Bug Out Bag Basic Checklist --Group Effort

BUG OUT BACK CHECKLIST (Emergency Supply List)

First note: you MUST have a plan with your loved ones where you can all meet up for then an escape route—especially if you live in the city and are looking to “bug out” of town. Many of you are like me, homesteader, so you will “bug in” and not “out”. Either way, you must know what your plan is to then know what to pack in your bag. Another important note: don’t pack stuff you don’t need or have no idea how to use. Take only the essentials with you. It should be easy to be carried on your back, in case a car is not an option. Your bag will be different than everyone else’s based on your plan and situation. Below are the basics across the board, vary yours for your own specific need. Example: if you have to leave your home and get out of town but have no family to go to, camping might be your option, add camping gear to your list. For this purpose though, it won’t be mentioned.

Basics Include:

Flashlights—2 of them with 6 sets of batteries for each

First Aid Kit—plenty in there for every event. They sell great kits at Walmart

Blankets or sleeping bags—even if it is summer, you need protection from the elements or if someone is ill, wrap them

Hunting Knife

Matches and lighters

Shovel

Pot for boiling water and a frying pan to cook in

Trash bag to act as a rain poncho

Tarp to cover your stuff to keep it dry—or plastic sheeting

Rope

Can opener

Hatchet

Vodka—sterilizes wounds

FOOD: 3 day supply of

Bottle water

Canned food

Note: if you are bugging in to you homestead, this list won't apply to you. This is for those that need to get out of the city and get safe. 

Brining your Herbs Indoors

Bringing your Herbs Indoors

-By the Mad Potter

 Spring, summer, fall have passed and the herb garden has seasoned you're  summer dishes well. Every one stares at the pots on the patio wishing I could keep them all year. here are a few tips on how to do that.

  To grow well indoors, herbs need as much natural light as possible. Place them in a sunny spot near a window where they’ll get at least 4 hours of sun daily. Windows that face south or southwest are your best shot at sun, though east- or west-facing windows also will do. North-facing windows are not bright enough.

   The best way to ruin a tabletop or windowsill is to let a potted plant drain on it. The best way to ruin most herbs is to let them sit in water so the roots will rot. Be sure to use a saucer, liner, or drain pan under the pot to catch water and protect your surface. Do not use Terra Cotta saucers they will drain right through.

    Most folks want Basil indoors.Basil is trickier.  If you have plenty of sun and warmth indoors, basil should thrive, but don’t keep it on a cool windowsill. Basil leaves will droop and fade after a short time in cool air. It prefers indoor temperatures in the 70s day and night.
   Remember that the air next to a window will be cooler in winter (or hotter in summer) than your average indoor temperature, so adjust your plants accordingly. Dry air, whether from air conditioning or heating, is hard on most herbs, so if you can give them a weekly shower in the sink, they will be happier.

   Rosemary does not like wet feet I let mine get close to dry before watering again.

Here are a few herbs that do well indoors

Chives
Lemon Balm
Marjoram
Mint (Chocolate Mint, Peppermint, Spearmint, or Sweet Mint)
Oregano (Greek Oregano, Italian Oregano, or Hot & Spicy Oregano)
Parsley (Flat Italian Parsley or Curled Parsley)
Rosemary
Sage
Thyme (German Thyme or Lemon Thyme)

Basic Mushroom Growing 101 -by Woodsman Dave

Mushroom growing.

First you start by buying a bag of clean oats. You put a half jar of oats 1/8 cup of vermiculite and 2/3 cup water. Let it sit for an hour. While sitting, take the lid and punch a hole in the middle with a hammer and nail. Put the lid on top. Put Tyvec house wrap over it, then put ring on it. I usually cut the Tyvec out to the size of the lid. Then put aluminum foil over that so no water gets in or out when pressure cooking. Pressure cook for two hours at 15 pounds to sterilize. Then (use Glovebox that you can make for about thirty bucks) to do a culture from a mushroom you want to grow. After the jar is sterile, put it in the glovebox and clean everything with alcohol. Take the mushroom, rip it open, take a small piece out of the middle, and put it in the jar. Put the lid back on and let it sit for two to three weeks while the Mycelium Colinizes then grains.

Step two: put hardwood fuel pellets for a pellet stove in bowl. 5.5 cups, add 2 cups of bran, and 6 cups boiling water. The pellets will turn to sawdust almost right away. Then pack those into jars with normal lids pressure. Cook for two hours. Now, go back to your glovebox to sanitize a bucket. I like ice cream buckets and coffee cans- the plastic ones. Then use alcohol to clean the bucket. Dump your sawdust in and your mycelium mix, put the lids on. Poke a hole in the top and tap a Tyvec piece over it. In 14 days, they will start popping. I usually drill 3/8 inch hole in the side of the bucket and tap plastic over it —to see if it turn white and push on the plastic. Then I take it off and let the mushrooms grow out.

HOW TO KEEP YOUR LIVESTOCK WARM WITHOUT LOOKING LIKE “THE GENTLE BARN” -By Boots N Lace

Seriously, some of these city folks are really in need of a reality check. Coats for chickens and goats. Really? If they would do a little research and STOP HUMANIZING THEM, they would realize, those coats are a waste of money. Mother Nature has provided EVERYTHING a goat or chicken (all livestock—this includes dogs and cats) needs to withstand ALL elements (there is exceptions to every rule, we will go over those in a minute.)

Ever gone camping or hiking? Maybe a bonfire on the beach? Any good Boy Scout can tell you what you need to start a fire and to keep it then going for hours with the smallest effort possible. I will equate the livestock to a simple example of fire starting and maintenance. What do you need to get a fire started? Small twigs and DRY weeds gets it jump started. Gotta then have the medium sized branches to go on or it burns out fast. To keep a good hot fire going, you are going to throw a dry, log on right? This gives a longer, more steady burn.

So, what is it your livestock need to stay warm? Food and shelter. That’s it? Yup, that’s it. Here’s how it works. First, they MUST HAVE a dry place to go. Livestock cannot warm themselves up if they are wet. They get cold, shivering burns MORE calories, then they get pneumonia and die from exposure. So make sure you have a good dry place for them to go to get out of the wind, rain, and snow. This is first and foremost. IF you don’t have this, DO NOT GET LIVESTOCK. You are not ready for them. The shelter needs to be solid on 3 sides with ventilation.

For Food: Starches are short acting but burn hot, then flame out. They are the “small twigs and branches” and examples are: grains (corn, wheat, oats, etc). Proteins and Fiber are longer acting and take longer to break down in their digestive system, then giving off a stead heat. They are the “logs” of the fire. Examples are: some grains carry a high percentage of proteins than others, hay, alfalfa, etc. UNDERSTAND THIS: Livestocks heat themselves from the INSIDE out. This is the opposite of what Humans do. This is also why coats are ridiculous on a goat or cow or chicken. They do nothing, actually, they HURT them by now their own hair or feathers won’t come in to keep them warm as Nature designed! If you want to keep your livestock warm FEED THEM! Give them a starch to jump start the inside furnace, then give them a longer burning fuel of a protein or fiber source. Remember it gets colder at night, so they need food to keep themselves warm, available at all times. When it is REALLY cold out, by instinct, a healthy goat, horse, or cow will eat around the clock. You can’t over feed in those situations! Most animals grow such a thick coat in, some will refuse to get out of the wind/snow and stand in it with their butts to the wind because standing in their provided shelter is still to hot for them. Don't worry, that's what NORMAL HEALTHY livestock do!

As with anything, there are exceptions to every rule. The really old, anything sick, or the really young sometimes need more TLC by bringing them in to a heated area more than what the heat of the herd and the shelter provide. But as soon as they are able to go out, put them out with the herd/flock! You want Nature’s methods of coat and feather growth to take its course so that the animal stands a chance of survival on its own. If an animal has been inside most of it’s life (dog or cat) you will have to “harden it” like you do tender plants in the Spring to get them ready to go in the ground. Little at a time so their coat has time to grow in. My working dogs live with the goats/cows year around. You can’t feel their skin their coats are so thick in the winter time. To bring them inside the house would be cruel as they would be miserable.

Providing anything less than the proper food and shelter is neglect and abuse. But as long as you have these 2 important things, you are good to go for the winter.

SETTING UP A WEBSITE: BASICS 102 MARKETING EDITION -by Boots N Lace

These days, Farmers need to be tech-y or they are screwed. Most live to far out for customers to come to them, and the Farmer’s Market is 1-2 times a week in most rural areas (if that) and weather dependent. Most are lucky to make back booth expense for the day—and who is staying with the Farm? So, a website IS the best way to get your product out there and known. I have been running a business for 10 years and the past almost 2 years has been in a rural area. Several drive 2 hrs for our dog training/boarding services. They would not have heard about me or my services without this said website. I did build it myself. I am NOT a website designer. Just know what I like and what the “tone” of my brand should be. Should you wish to view it, please do www.puppyluvfarm.com

What you will need:
-domain name or URL (same thing, used interchangeably)
-A host provider
-A website builder (online or you can buy a CD too)
-About $150-200 to start
-Nice photos of your product
-Look up terms for definitions if you are not CERTAIN of what they mean or you will be confused: search words, disclaimer, virtual,

STEP 1: Domain name or URL is the “dot com” address you enter in the search bar of Google or another search engine. These have to be purchased by you from someone. There are 2 companies that hold the ownership of ALL domain names (other claim to, but they buy them from these 2 sources as well, so don’t buy into that crap and pay a mark up!). GO-Daddy or Enom are the 2 companies, cost is about $12.99/year. Go to either website, and do a search to see if the domain you wish to own is in use. Also do a search for your desired business name to see if it is in use on Google. IF IT IS CHANGE IT NOW! Developing a brand takes several years to build. To find out down the road THEN that someone else Trademarked it as theirs and then serves you with a letter to not use it any more, SUCKS and the law is on the side of the Trademark owner. So be sure to check that.

STEP 2: Now you need a website service provider., cost is about FREE-$150/yr There are several free ones with options to upgrade as long as you add their hosting service (Covered in step 3), GO-Daddy has this, so does Wix. com. Both are user friendly, if you can Facebook and scrap book then you can use these services—it is just a virtual form of scrap booking! To start with, just get an introductory page and a second page with your product. Have nice photos ready to load.

Common Mistake: folks want to explain and talk to much on their website. NOOOOO….you loose business! Keep it short and sweet! Remember, this is advertising. Example: Do you listen to the pharmacy advertisements for disclaimers that the courts ordered for them to do when they go on and on about all the possible side effects? Nope, course ya don’t. So don’t put your customers through that either. You want JUST ENOUGH that they then pick up the phone and call ya because you peeked their interest!

Make sure your contact information is listed ON EACH PAGE at least 2-3 times! Make it easy for folks to find ya. I got pissed at Sprint a year ago because their web designer forgot to list the 800 number! Business hours of operation need to be at the bottom (folks are used to looking there) and make sure you use your search words (we will cover that in the 103) at least twice PER PAGE.

Avoid labeling your pages with: home page, contact page, etc. When folks search you, you want your PAGE NAMES to pull up on the search engine right? Look at my website. What are the pages names? Relevant to a common search for that business type, right? Think of things that people would be using to search your business for, and use those! If you can figure that out you are AHEAD OF THE PACK!

AVOID THE USE OF: Guest books, booking services through your website, review pages that a customer can enter on your website in order to avoid the NASTY work of the hackers. Why? They will reverse that page against you, crash your website, and your hosting service will drop you and your website like a hot rock. They will then hold your URL hostage until you pay to fix the hacking damage done. Ask how I know this. (Ass holes. They tried to say my website contacted ALL customer for the Navy Credit Union in New York with some scam when I am down here in TN!) This is also the very reason you want to stay away from “free websites” and service. Nothing is ever free and the free ones are the easiest for the hackers to use! If I am PAYING for something, I then can make an argument that the hosting provider is the one at fault as they are suppose to have the fire walls to protect me from that! So DON’T USE THE FREE SERVICES!

STEP 3: To “attach” your website and your domain name (or scrap book for explanation purposes) to the internet search engines (like Google, Yahoo, Bing, etc) you MUST have a host, otherwise, you just have a pretty scrapbook sitting at home on a shelf that only YOU can see and no one else. The Hosting service is the one that will show your website to the world. This usually runs about $80/year.

NOW HERE’S THE KICKER. To save you money at first, use the free website builder from GO-Daddy or Wix.com but then pay them for their hosting service! You usually get a significant discount by doing this through them the first year. Currently my URL, hosting, and website are all thru Enom. But come the first of the year, I will be moving my URL to GO-Daddy (they will buy it from Enom and get it released) so that not ALL my eggs are in one basket. Word to the Wise from the Experienced: these hosting, ass holes play dirty. Set it up, then split it up as soon as you can. That way, should they sell any portion of your website, hosting service, or URL to a 3rd party provider (that has happened to me 4x in 10 years of business, and I knew about it once of being sold), then they can’t hold any part of your website hostage!

Make sure you understand the definition of EACH of these 3 things you need: domain name, host provider, and website builder before you start wheeling and dealing. To many people go into this lazy and unprepared. KNOW YOUR BUSINESS AND SAVE YOURSELF SOME CASH!

Fermenting Feed for Chicken Basics 101 (is there a 102?)

What you will need to get or have on hand:

TWO 5 gal buckets with lids. Food grade if you eat these chickens or their eggs!
1 small bottle of Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)
Food for the chickens: your normal feed


To START: the process takes 3 days initially. You will want one bucket going out to feed the chickens while the other is “brewing”
Dump in 1/2 bucket full of your normal feed. Add 1/2 cup of ACV. Add water till about 3 inches over the top of your feed. Let it set. Go out and stir it 3x a day. Add water as needed till it is a tooth paste consistency. Keep it covered with the lid to avoid wild birds from getting into it if it is outside and odor down (smells like vomit). The food will swell to fill the entire 5 gals! Watch for bubbles and the odor. When you have both of those, it is ready to go out.

Feed: For 40 birds I feed 15 cups spread out in different dishes (4 total) in the morning. And another 8 cups in the afternoon mid day. They eat about 1 5gal bucket every 3 days. Feed till about 3 inches from the bottom

Next Round to repeat:
Take the 3 inches from the bottom, add from “To Start” at the top to repeat process but DO NOT ADD the ACV. Stir. You will get ferment in 2 days then instead of 3.

Findings:

One week finished of feeding fermented feed. They have ate about 40lbs. So 1lb each for 40 birds. Feed here is about $13/50lb for the mix I give (all natural layer feed, BOSS, Scratch). Averages to about .35c/bird per week. The poop is 1/3 of normal in the coop.

 

1/3 from the bottom

 40 birds chowing down. They LOVE IT!

--Boots N Lace

Getting your homestead off the ground: Marketing Edition

Getting your homestead off the ground: Marketing Edition

     Homesteading isn't all that we strive for in this simple hard life we have chosen. We also need to find a way to finance this dream without killing ourselves or landing in a mountain of debt. Much of this has us at some point thinking about selling something from our homestead to hopefully make a profit but settle for just breaking even. Why shouldn't we think of selling something? I mean we have fruits, veggies, meat, eggs, canned items, animals, and sometimes hand crafted items. Somehow, the generations before us made enough to live this way, yet many of us are lacking what they had.

     I think it comes down to several things. We have smaller families (labor force), more expensive equipment, more laws and regulations than ever before, and more competition because of the internet. This forces us to stay in the rat race when our heart is very far away. The longer you are stuck in the rat race, the harder it is to get out. By design, it is a faulted system now.

-Branding: Getting your name out there seems to be the hardest part for most. I have a few ideas on that. First. you need a name and a brand so they can find you again. Choose your name carefully because it is the hardest thing to change. Then, you need a picture they can remember (stranger is better). If you ever need to change the picture, it is easy. For about 2 months print both the old picture and the new picture on everything and have a "new look" blob on there. I say 2 months to cover as much of your customer base as possible. Use the same name and picture across all platforms (labels, business cards, brochures, etc...).

-Business Cards: There are several legitimate websites that give away 250 free business cards. Take advantage of this and include one in every item you use. This makes it easy for your customers to hand your information on to someone else when they are talking about your products. Word of mouth and contact details are by far the best way to get known.

-Labels: Sticky labels on your products also help. People will see them in use and want them. Avery makes very good labels of all kinds. You can buy them at Walmart and print your information on them yourself, or you can use their design studio online and have them print them. In the long run it may be cheaper for massive amounts of the same product to be printed by them as ink does cost a ton. For small quantity items, buy the labels and print yourself. You want the product name as well as your business name and logo on these labels.

-Samples, samples, samples! Now that you have the cards and labels, you want to make small samples to get people hooked with both included. Make it just small enough to want more but not big enough to last more than 2 weeks. This seems to be the "sweet spot" to get people hooked on the item and want to purchase larger amounts. If it is too small and pretty they won't use it so you loose sales in a "pretty" item. If it is too large, the excitement for a new item will be gone come ordering time. Samples are best given to nurses, left in random shopping carts, and the local auto parts stores. They are most likely to be taken and used at these locations.

-Brochures: Now that people are getting hooked, it is time to make brochures or possibly a website. I prefer brochures because they are easier to get to your local market, can be read at ones leisure, are simple to make, not many use this method, and give one a feel for what you have available. Microsoft office and Open Office both have templates for brochures so long ago are the days of trying to figure out placement and sizes. Use color and pictures to attract the eyes. Now, if you print these at home you will forever be buying ink. I suggest you go to your local library and print them there. Mine charges 15 cents a page for color copies. Trust me, that is much cheaper than buying ink and paper. Pass them out to friends so they will get to their work places. Know any health care workers? They talk a ton! Give them a few. In their downtime, they will look. Leave a few at the library, laundry mats, doctors office, random carts at the grocery store (looks like someone else liked it and forgot to take it), mechanics, and ask if the local auto parts store will allow you to leave some on the counter. All these places may seem strange for something homesteading related, but they will get around. *There is too much competition at big feed stores, and the little ones seem only willing to help if they know you either personally or through business.

-Online: Don't want to pay for a website but still want the access? You can use Bookoo, craigslist, and now facebook. Remember when using these places that there are spammers and bots. Make sure you separate your email address and put letters between the numbers for your phone number to reduce these occurrences. While these can be effective in larger areas, they can also be very frustrating. Bookoo seems to be less frustrating in my area, but you'll have to see what works best in your area.

-Orders: Now you have a ton of orders flying in and feel discombobulated. Easy fix there too. Create a standard order form for all the info you would need to collect from the buyer. You are better off if you print 4 order forms per page. You can buy a small clipboard and keep them in your pocket or purse. If you don't have enough products for an order form, get a pocket sized pen and notebook to keep on you. This allows you to take orders no matter where you are. Then, get some dry erase boards. Put them where you can see them the most. Update them with the amount of each item you have on hand. It is easier to glance at that rather than having to find and count everything. If you have a section for what was sold, that will also help in keeping track of costs.

-Sales: While sales are a good marketing tactic, do not over use them. If you always have a sale for single items, you are devaluing your items. Why should a customer buy something at regular price if they know darn well it will go on sale next week? Now, buying 2 or more and getting a SMALL discount on a regular basis is a good idea. It promotes buying more yet not costing as much. Larger regular orders should get the larger discounts for their loyalty and to keep product moving. Loyalty cards work great! You know, those punch cards. Go back to that business card website and print the punch cards. Let's say, for every 12 dozen eggs you buy you get one dozen free. Not only does this get their loyalty to you to fill up these cards, the customer also tends to loose them and will have to start over. Punches are easy to get in any design so I suggest signing each block or buying a stamp logo. This will prevent fraud on the cards.

-Donations: I know it sounds strange to send out donations to make money, but there really are a ton of bleeding hearts out there. Give some of your brochures to police stations and let them know that you will try to help with a little if something bad happens. Let's say that someone's house burns down, you could offer boarding of their animals for 2 weeks to get them on their feet, a couple dozen eggs, nest boxes, canned goods, a small basket with candles and soap, fruit or veggie baskets, etc... After a few, you have the loyalty of the bleeding hearts. The victims and police will spread the word of how nice it was that you helped, making more people want to buy from you. Even the smallest of gestures opens up these people, you don't have to break the bank to help.

     With a world of everything selling the same thing, you need to find your way to stand out of the crowd. Quality and unique marketing will help you achieve this. Never exchange quality for quantity, you will loose money in the end. For those that have had success, what helped you?

~Independent Twist

Basics 101 of a Pig on the Homestead -by Commando Bacon

Basics 101 on Pigs -by Commando Bacon

Pigs. We all like bacon, right? But with prices varying from $7-9/lb, filled with crap you don’t want your family eating, why trust the stores if you can figure it our yourself. Right? So what does a pig for the family need? Below are a list of the basics to get ya started. If you have any more, shout out! 

Shelter: Look at the laws in your county as to what is required for shelter FIRST. You might be surprised what you find, cheaper to do it the right way the first time. But basically…nothing fancy. A wind/shelter break that is on 3 sides filled with straw will do fine. Remember to add more straw if it gets really frigid where you live—remember, you want GOOD results in quality of taste right? So plan to get your hog early spring and in the freezer by hot season. Or start late Spring and then off to freezer camp in the fall. 

Fencing: Pigs root. Get a nose ring on that thing! There are variable kinds. Jeffers.com has a lot to choose from. They will root out from under a fence easily. OR use hotwire. You don’t want to see Porky running up the county road! Make sure you can keep a pig in your area, correct zoning is key!

Vaccines: Are you taking this pig to the farmer’s market or the fair? Then ya gotta get vaccines. If not, then Lepto is all I recommend for breeding stock (meaning the parents you are wintering over and breeding again. IF you are not breeding, don’t worry about it). But remember, worms live in the meat of a pig and can be transferred to the human. So start a good worming schedule and keep that meat healthy for your family. A stool sample to your vet or learn to do it yourself will tell you what kind ya need and how much.

Feed: Pigs eat anything. Feed em. To start off with, get them weaned onto a 20% protein food till they are about 40-60lbs, then drop it to a 16% protein level till about 2 weeks. Then, to finish it out, you want to feed  corn and bean meal mixture of 16% protein to corn ratio. All are on a twice daily schedule for these grain mixes. You will want to feed all scraps and anything else to fill it up in the middle! This is the number #1 pigs dig out—they will go off to forage for themselves if you don’t! So feed it, and feed it well. Pigs can be free range field bigs—cleaner and smell less. Grass fed also brings more on the pound. Or if you want a fat pig faster, confine it to an area you can clean and keep it from burning off calories.

Breeding: Your breeding stock (as mentioned) should be vaccinated for Lepto. Nature is cruel, a lot of the sows will squish the babies and well, that’s that. Prepare yourself and budget for loss. 

On a scale of hard to easy, remember these 3 things: 

#1 if one can raise a Labrador you can raise a pig.

#2 use you head, pigs dig if you are not going to feed, it will feed itself

#3 breed does not matter, all pigs have pork...

BLOOD TYPING 101 -By Independent Twist

OK, I'm about to go old school on you. When you think of surviving anything what do you think of? Storing food, water, weapons, ammo, medical supplies, currency of some sort, hygiene supplies, or comfort supplies? Do you ever think with all those medical emergencies that you will incur that you will at some point need blood? It is really the one thing you need to consider. First, do you know your blood type? If you don't count the disease/infection as something to rule out, 93% of the population can't receive blood from just anyone. (If you do look at disease or infection your chances of getting any blood is severely diminished.) Did you know that receiving the wrong type of blood can cause both an anaphylactic reaction (shock caused by an allergen) and rupture (they really blow apart) of any red blood cells you currently have in your body. The red blood cells carry oxygen, no O2, no life. Both cause death within minutes and are hard to treat in even the best stocked emergency department. With the proper treatment if caught in time, anaphylaxis can be treated but we still loose people to this reaction everyday from things as simple as peanuts. Rupture of the blood cells cannot be treated. Once they are dead, they are dead. We treat by knowing the early signs of reaction, stopping the transfusion, and pushing large amounts of saline. Missing even the smallest first reaction that is not noticeable by the naked eye will kill you. If you don't know your blood type, go get tested now. You can donate blood and they will tell you. You can ask your doctor to check on your next lab draw. Or you can seek out a lab or test of your own. Keep in mind that some “at home” tests are as reliable as dollar store pregnancy tests... I prefer the Eldon home kit for accuracy and long term storage for emergency uses:http://www.bta-mall.com/product_detail.php… You need to know if you are A, B, AB, or O. (If you have type K you already know the meaning and there is no help outside of your own family. So hit them up for blood, you already know they'll be a match.) Then you need to know if you are Rh + or Rh-. Rh- people can only receive Rh- blood, Rh+ can receive both Rh+ and Rh-.
{A+ people can receive blood from A+ or A-, O+ or O-. They can give blood to only A+ or AB+ people} 

{A- can receive blood from A- or O- only. They can give blood to A+, A–, AB+, or AB-.}
(B+ people can receive blood from B+, B–, O+, or O-. They can give blood to B+ or AB+ only.}
{B- can only receive B- and O-. They can give blood to B+, B–, AB+, or AB-.}
{AB+ are the lucky universal receivers. They can only give to AB+ though.}
{AB- can receive A-, B-, AB-, or O-. They can only give to AB+ or AB-.}
{O+ can only receive O+ or O-. They can give to A+, B+, AB+, or O+}
{O- can only receive O-. They are the nice universal donors though.}

Labs use ABO(H) grouping antisera as a medium to tell what type of blood you have. It is mass produced, frozen, and hard to have if you have no electric. Without knowing your blood type before hand, you can test another person on an emergency basis only without the antisera. I say only emergencies because this is in no way a guarantee of a perfect match but will warn you of some possible mismatches beforehand. Even with what looks like a perfect match in a lab, there are still life threatening reactions to receiving some blood. You will need a clean white tile, antiseptic (like alcohol), and something to puncture the skin for blood. Lets say you have 3 people willing to donate for 1 person that needs blood. Use antiseptic one everyones fingers (bacteria can change results). Puncture the recipients finger and let 4 drops of blood hit the tile in separate areas. Puncture each donors finger and put one drop of their blood on one of the recipients blood drop leaving one just the recipients blood. Wait 5-20 minutes for results. 5 minutes will be less accurate but useful for emergent cases while 20 minutes would give the best results. If it clumps in less than 5 minutes it is not a match and will lead to a deadly reaction. If it separates the red cells and the serum you don't want to use it. If it looks the same or dries without clumping or separating after 20 minutes you have the best match. Another trick we use if the recipient just needs more blood volume but still retains enough blood product to survive is to give them large amounts of normal saline. To make this, you will need to stay as sterile as possible. The water needs to be boiled with the salt in it then returned to room temp before giving it. The ratio is ½ a teaspoon of salt with NO iodine per 8oz/1c. 1L or 1000mL is usually used to replace volume in adults (20mL per kg) (1kg=2.2lbs), children can suffer from fluid overload quickly so you really need to watch the measurements for the fluid based on weight. The solution only lasts a maximum of 24 hours because it is the perfect environment for bacteria to grow. Anything introduced into the veins grows faster, effects you more, and is harder to treat. I hope you will never need to know any of this. With a standing health and electrical system, you won't. If SHTF, you will be glad you did know.

~Independent Twist

Who is Unicoi Ludd?

Unicoi Ludd is the pseudonym of a Woodwright who maintains historic buildings in Columbia, S.C. He is committed to practicing traditional techniques and too teaching others how to use those skills in their day to day lives. He is a member of The Early American Industries Association and The Mid-West Tool Collectors Association and has written for magazines such as Backwoods Home and Self Reliance. He and his wife divide their time between a hobby farm in S.C. and an off-grid homestead to be in T.N.

Who is Commando Bacon?

Who is Commando Bacon? 

We all know him as Dan, a wild man on the "net" that expresses his opinions clearly and in his words "black and white." A good sense of humor in both the give and take realm, that is somewhat rough around the edges (but we suspect has a good heart). But talk to him, his wisdom in farming comes from years of experience doing things as only Dan can--sarcastically and with humor. 

A true American at heart, Dan believe in family values and good work ethics, he says he is "Only liberal about one thing, and that's religion, because it's all in your own beliefs." Dan grew up in a farm/ranch family that ran strictly cattle, horses, a few birds, and hogs on the side. This is following 7 generations of Americans that originally came from Germany to work in the coal mines until the 1920s when things went bust and then farming became Dan's family way of living. 

Today, Dan has his own little homestead in Iowa with 2 kids, 5 cows, 7 sows, and a zoo of poultry. Besides his personal homestead, Dan manages a family operation of 2,000 acres of corn, beans, and hay while wrangling 300 mama cows with calves that the ranch raises to finish. 

-Commando Bacon

Confused by Canning? (Basics 101 for beginners) -by Independent Twist

Confused by canning???

Are you confused by canning with the “official” canning guides being 50+ pages and all contradicting each other? Does it look really scary with all the ways you can screw up? Not to fear, we have your answers tried and true. Let me start by saying that canning is a lot like farming. It costs a pretty penny to start, there will be mistakes, it's hard work, and it's very rewarding. There are many things to look at when you decide to start because they will effect your method of canning. What am I canning? Is my produce heirloom, hybrid, or GMO? Cold or hot pack? What is pectin? What kind of jars/lids? What kind of canner should I use? The list goes on and on. All of these things need to be considered to avoid risk to your health. If done properly, canning can be a great way to extend your produce life and be self sustaining. No matter where you look, everyone has their own opinion and disagreements about what and how you can can. This is my take on canning. Let's get on with the most common questions:

1) What is canning and why should I try it?
~Canning is an older form of preserving food to be shelf stable. Canning can relieve stress and help you become more self sufficient especially in the winter time.

2) How much does it cost to start or maintain canning?
~I am not going to lie, it costs a pretty penny if you buy everything new to start. A good pressure canner costs about $100, 12 pack of pint jars is $8-$12, lids are $2-$3 (12 pack), kit (for ease like jar lifter) $12-$15, food (like sugar, salt, pectin, spices, etc...) can cost as little or as much as you want. There are ways to reduce the costs but I'll address them later.

3) What can I can?
~Just about anything you want. I can meat, fish, pickled products, soups, meals, veggies, fruit, jams, jellies, preserves, broths, etc...

4) What can't I can?
~The green skin on potatoes, items already starting to spoil, mashed items (bacteria in air gets trapped in and the heat can't penetrate deep enough to kill it), and some sources say onions (even though I process over 100 pints of beefy french onion soup a year with great success).

5) What should I try to can first?
~Most people start off with jellies because they are easiest and can be processed with the water bath method.

6) Why does it matter if my fruit/veggies are heirloom, hybrid, or GMO?
~Heirloom produce has what you would consider normal acid levels for each item (ie: tastes acidic so it is acidic like citrus or tomatoes). Hybrids are made by either splicing two roots/branches together to change the properties (flavor, heartiness) or by cross pollinating. Hybrids are usually closer to heirloom acid levels but may have a lower acid level despite taste. If you are unsure about the acid level you can always test it with a pH strip found anywhere that sells fish or pool products. GMO is a process of changing the DNA in a seed. One of the most popular items canned that *must* change the method of canning because it is GMO is tomatoes. The acid in regular tomatoes was causing acid reflex in many people so they couldn't eat them. GMO tomatoes are made to taste similar while drastically reducing the acid level forcing what would normally be a water bath method item to now be a pressure canned item. I'm not going to debate GMO's as good or bad, but this move by them was to “allow people with acid reflex to enjoy tomatoes and tomato products”.

7) What is pectin? Why use it?
~Pectin is a gelatin product. It comes in powder and “liquid” forms. The easiest way to use it is to get the single portion boxes (about the size of jello boxes). It is used to form a texture like jello, or jelly. It is naturally found in some fruit and is what we use to thicken fluids for people having trouble swallowing. In some cases you can drastically reduce the amount of sugar in a recipe when using pectin. It is used in most jellies made today.

8) What kind or size of jars and lids should I use? Is there a difference between brands?
~The size depends on what you are canning. Jellies and jams are usually in half pints or pints. Pickles are usually in quarts or half gallons. I like meats in pints for the distribution of heat while others use smaller. You don't want to go much larger than a pint with meat because of the denseness (90min process time @ 15#). Fruits and veggies depend on how much you think you will use after opening and before spoiling. Because fruits and veggies are big in my house I use quarts knowing that they will go quickly. I like soups and stews in pint and a half size (little harder to find). Remember that size does matter. If the jar is too big and processing time short (10-20 min) the heat may not get hot enough for long enough in the center of the jar to kill bacteria. There is a difference between brands. Great Value jars hold up well but their lids are crap for sealing and require preheating. Ball has always been great but they just changed the seal so you are no longer to preheat the lids. Preheating the new Ball lids will result in seal failure. Kurr is another really great brand. They cost more than Ball and Great Value but I have never had a single failed seal through them.

***PSA: You can reuse jars and rings but NEVER reuse lids! Check rims on jars and rings for dents, rust, and chips. If any are found DO NOT use. Botulism will not pop seals every time, doesn't often smell, doesn't often taste bad, and will kill you slowly and painfully!*

9) What kind of canner do I need?
~This is more simple than everyone makes it sound. High acid foods can be water bath canned. Water bath is basically boiling water that is at least 2” above the top of the jars (stock pot) and has a rack on the bottom. Don't have a rack? Throw in a dish towel to prevent the jars from touching the bottom. Low acid foods require pressure canning. A pressure cooker and a pressure canner is the same thing. Don't pay more because it says canner. Make sure it has a flexible seal under the lid, weight (black knob thing) or gauge if you can get one (better than a weight because it shows exact pressure), pressure release valve (some are black round rubber looking and others are metal that slips back and forth easily when the lid is not in use), and rack in the bottom. A large pressure canner can be used for both water bath (remove lid) and pressure canning (I have several).

10) Can I stack jars in my canner to have larger batches?
~Yes, with the proper water level and a rack (comes in canners) between bottom row and top row.

11) I have looked everywhere and can't find out exactly how much water to put in my canner...
~For a water bath canner you want to cover the upper most jar lid by at least 2” of water. Watch this level with longer processing times and add more if it starts to get too low. Always have the lids covered with water for water bath. For a pressure canner, you want 2-3” of water total after the jars are placed in the canner (Do not cover jars).

12) Hot or cold pack?
~Boy oh boy! The great debate boils down to your preference but either way you have to make sure your recipe is adjusted for the heat difference. I personally hot pack most items. Not only does that prevent the jars from breaking when placed in the prewarmed water, it also reduces the time to get the jar up to temp. Most of my recipes call for hot pack. If all else fails, use what was called for in your recipe.
13) I am scared to try canning because of what I have heard about Botulism. How do you avoid it? What creates it?
~Botulism is a toxin caused by clostridiun botulinum spores. Proper canning can avoid it. You need to process items for the full time, wash anything raw before it is placed in the jars, check seals after they have cooled, and process using the correct method (low acid=pressure canner, high acid=water bath. You can process high acid in a pressure canner as well if you want.). If the seal isn't intact, there is mold, or it smells funny do not consume. When opening canned items, reheat thoroughly after checking for spoilage.

14) How do I know that it is sealed?
~Your first check is to listen for the “pops” when the jars are cooling. Every canner gets a little delight every time one pops. It sounds similar to opening a jar of pickles from the store. Second check is to press lightly in the center of the lid, if it bounces one way or another it is not sealed (it works like the pop of a jar from the store to let you know someone already opened it). Third check is when you go to open it. If the lid is loose it is a bad sign (it should be tough to get off). I like to store my jars without the rings so it is easier to do the third check. The ring can keep an unsealed lid in place and make it mimic a sealed jar.

15) Wait, are pressure canners dangerous?
~Despite urban legions, they are quite safe if used properly now a days. They used to have screw in locks and clogged pressure release valves that would cause them to explode under the pressure. Make sure your valve moves easily when the lid is not in use and watch your pressure levels. Pressure levels for recipes are not high enough to cause an issue if your release valve is functioning properly.

More tips:

*”Finger tighten” in the instructions means that a 2 year old can unscrew it. Never fully tighten the ring while canning. If you want it tight you can tighten it after the jar cools and seals.
*Wipe a butter knife around the edge inside the jar to remove air bubbles that harbor bacteria before canning.
*Wipe rims clean and leave proper head space before canning.
*”Head space” is empty space between the top of your fluid and the top of the rim.
*Never oven can.
*Watch your pots, pressure, and boil while canning.
*Cover canned jars loosely with a towel to prevent drafts and breaking of glass from sudden temperature changes after pulling them from the canner. Also, place a towel under the jars to avoid cold counters doing the same thing.
*Let the pressure canner vent for 10 minutes before timing for your recipie. This allows it to reach the proper temperature.
*Allow the pressure to release itself from a pressure canner, do not force it to happen quicker.
*Check both vent and gauge on pressure canners for blockages.
*Rotate stock so your jars are not going bad in the back.
*Invest in a cheap jar lifter (Ball brand is $8), your fingers will love you for it!
*Wash everything before and after use.
*Label jars with name of food and month/year date for ease.
*Store in cool dry place.

Places to get up to date information on what the government considers safe:
http://www.simplycanning.com/
http://www.freshpreserving.com/
http://ucfoodsafety.ucdavis.edu/files/26457.pdf
http://www.cdc.gov/features/homecanning/

Do you have more tips, tricks, or common questions for the beginner canner? Post in the comments and we'll add them to this post on the blog. Let us know if you want credit for the tip, and if so, under what name.
For the advanced canners, we will have a follow up post for the harder to find canning information and what has changed in canning in the past 100 years next week. Get your questions ready!