Teas and Smoking -by Stuck in the City

~Tea and smoking~

*Tea*
Also known as infusions, this is a great, simple way to deliver the medicine. It also makes it an easy solution for storage!

To store: Dehydrate until they crumble. Store as whole as possible and crumble as needed.

To make: put 1 to 2 tablespoons of chopped mullein leaves in a cup of boiling water. Allow it to steep for a full 10 minutes. Strain REALLY well (mullein has tiny hairs that can irritate the throat if not strained out). Add fruit rind, honey, or lemon juice to flavor. Drink warm or chilled. Can be cooled and applied for topical use.

What is mullein tea used for? Wounds, Hemorrhoids, Colds, Flu, Asthma, Diarrhea, Migraines, Gout, Tuberculosis, Croup, Cough, Sore throat, Inflammation of the airways (bronchitis).

*Smoking*
Smoking herbs is a great way to get medicine you need quickly. Not all herbs are safe to smoke. Some are more beneficial when smoked.

To prepare: dehydrate mullein leaves until they easily crumble. It is best to give a rough chop or tear the leaves prior to dehydrating as mullein is a tough leaf. Crumble or use an “herb” or tobacco grinder (commonly sold in smoke shops) to grind the leaves.

To use: Place a small amount in a pipe or (gonna get a little redneck here) one side of a socket. Mullein may need to be relit a few times through the smoking process.

Why smoke mullein? Mullein soothes inflamed airways, infected lungs, and helps prevent dry couging and promote effective coughing. Smokers have used it to feel like they are smoking while quitting nicotine.

Stuck in the city

Salves -by Stuck in the City

*Salves*

Salves are umm… amazing. This one uses plantain (not the fruit) which is extremely easy to find. There are many many ways to make them. The general idea is slowly heating the oil with the plant so it absorbs the plant compounds. I will explain using a crockpot because it is easiest, but a double boiler works as well.

How to make it: Fill a jar with finely chopped plantain leaves. Cover with a neutral oil such as coconut oil. Place lid loosely on jar. Place a clean towel in your crockpot. Place jar on towel and fill crockpot with water up to 2 inches from the jar rim. Heat on low for a minimum of 12 hours, up to 24 hours. Once cool enough to handle, strain leaves out and discard. On a double boiler, melt 2 tablespoons of beeswax for each cup of oil. Once melted, pour in oil discarding the water that has settled to the bottom (some oil is bound to be tossed with it, but you DO NOT want water in the salve) and mix thoroughly. Pour into jars while still warm and allow to cool. It will firm up once it is cool.

How to use it: apply to affected area generously as often as needed.

What is it used for? Bug bites, nettle stings, minor snake bites that are NOT poisonous, rashes, minor cuts, poison ivy, sunburn, burns, and basically everything else that is a skin related issue. I use this stuff for EVERYTHING.

Stuck in the city

Herbal Tinctures -by Stuck in the City

~Herbal medicine- getting started~

There are 5 basic ways to make and use herbal medicines. In these examples, I will use mullein and plantain. Both are readily available, easy to identify, likely growing in or near your yard, and have no known drug/disease interactions. Meaning they are generally safe.

*Tinctures*

Tinctures are easy to make, a great way to pack a punch, and easy to take. I will use mullein for this example, but any tincture worthy plant can be used in its place.
What is it? A tincture is an extract made from herbs that is taken orally. There are other means of making one, but alcohol is the one discussed here as it is most widely used. It is generally administered under the tongue which makes it quick acting.
To make: chop up mullein leaves finely. Smaller cuts means more surface area is accessed. Place chopped leaves into a jar filling it roughly 3/4 of the way. Fill jar with alcohol. A minimum of 80 proof is required, vodka is most widely used and recommended. The alcohol will draw out the compounds in the plant and they will remain in the alcohol. Allow to sit for 6 weeks and strain. The remaining alcohol is the tincture.

To use: Depending on the plant, your dosage may change. Generally speaking and for mullein tincture, a dose is 5-10 drops (using an eye dropper) administered directly under the tongue. It can be diluted in juice or water if needed, but will not act as quickly.

What mullein tincture is used for: It is an AMAZING plant for coughs and stuffy noses. It also helps with Colds, Flu, Asthma, Diarrhea, Migraines, Gout, Tuberculosis, Croup, Cough, Sore throat, Inflammation of the airways (bronchitis).

Stuck in the city

Foraged Syrup from Nature -by Stuck in the City

*Syrup*

NOT the awesome sweet stuff (although, this is sweet) that is used to top pancakes and ice cream. I will get to that eventually because it’s awesome. This is cough syrup only MUCH MUCH better tasting and WAY better for you. Not only that, I don’t have to fight my toddler to take it and it actually works. No matter how sick she is, this stuff works and she’s back to normal within 10 minutes. It isn’t just hype. It is proven to work.

This does use elderberry in the recipe, but it is still interchangeable for your desired effects. The measurements would generally stay the same.

To make: Add 1 cup elderberries, 4 cups of water, and 1/3 cup of mullein to a pot. Use a potato masher (or whatever it’s called) and mash elderberries. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Allow to simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Allow to cool and strain through cheesecloth. Discard elderberry mix. Once syrup in entirely cooled, add 1 cup of honey.

Why and how? Elderberry syrup is proven to reduce cold and flu illness. Mullein is an expectorant which makes it so you have effective coughing. Both help reduce (or completely abolish) a stuffy nose.

Stuck in the city

Who is "Stuck in the City"?

Who is "Stuck in the city"?

Well, I'm just that. Stuck, but for all the right reasons. I didn't get stuck on accident.

I was born in a once rural town in Illinois. I was born and bred country. It had became extremely urban and My parents wanted out. We moved to a small farming town. My grandma taught me everything from gardening to sewing in that little town.

At 18, I went against everyone and ran off with the man of my dreams. 6 weeks after the wedding, he left for his deployment. He came home in one piece, but it definitely changed his city slicker priorities. We eventually worked our way up to a farmette with chickens, ducks, turkey, and whatever else we found to keep us company.

We later had a little runt of our own. Soon after her arrival, my husband took a job in Wisconsin that would require us to move and stay in the city while we saved money. The job required us to sacrifice the home we had, but it allowed for so much more.

After moving, I FINALLY got a doctor to confirm what I had known all along. I had an autoimmune disease genetically derived from my mother. The catch? She wouldn't treat it. Doctor after doctor refused to help. Because my grandma took me foraging, I started getting into that to help with mobility. As I learned what I could eat, I also learned what could medicate. I took my health and my sanity back. I'm a very firm believer in modern medicine, but this opened up a new world. Because of these plants (that I doubted would do ANYTHING to help) I am no longer on medications, healthy, and mostly sane.

Now, I sit here, stuck in the city. I patiently wait for the day I can get out of it, but until then, it was worth it.

Wood Rot--Part 4--Unicoi Ludd

Wood Rot Part 4. 

So now we come to the part most people want to know -"How do keep my fence posts from rotting without spending any money"? The simple & best answer is - use the right wood. All trees have different characteristics & one of those is "resistance to decay". Simply put, some woods are more appealing to fungi & bacteria than others. This resistance is caused (generally) by chemical compounds, created by the tree itself. These compounds are called "extractives" and come in different forms. They are contained predominantly in the heartwood of the tree. Many of us have seen a log in the forest covered in rotten, pulpy and soaking wet decay and yet the heartwood is still whole & solid. Those extractives have protected the wood even while the sapwood was completely consumed. These natural compounds are as durable as anything man made, are already in the wood & free. The easiest way to determine if a tree will make a good post is to search "decay resistance of ------" anything described as poor or moderate or non-durable should not be used. Be as specific as possible because there is a wide variation among species, for example if you Google "decay resistance oak" you need to know what species of oak. Red oak decay resistance is poor / non durable while White oak is very good / durable. Obviously this depends on the trees available in your area, but that's the idea. A misconception about decay resistance is that "hard" woods are more resistant that "soft" , this is not correct, it depends entirely on those extractive chemicals not the relative hardness of the wood. As far as treating wood that is not naturally decay resistant, there are some low cost options. My favorite is placing posts in a barrel and dumping wood ash from the stove in and soaking with water. This saturates the wood with lye and discourages the decay causing organisms. Lye is water soluble so it will eventually leach out and leave the wood vulnerable. An old belief that charring the wood prevents decay is not really effective, charcoal is virtually decay proof but the wood beneath is not. At best charring may add a couple of years durability. So to conclude, remember that moisture must be present to cause decay but does not itself cause decay. Keeping wood dry is the best way to preserve it. Chemical treatments that discourage fungi & bacteria are effective but must be understood for safe use. Naturally decay resistant woods are an excellent resource if you can identify them. I hope this helps, if you have questions or comments I'll be happy to respond.

And by the way, termites cannot digest wood. Microbes/ bacteria in their digestive tracts convert the macerated wood into simple sugars and that nourishes the termite. It's all about those fungi, microbes and what not

 😜

Wood Rot Part 3 -Unicoi Ludd

Wood Rot Part 3. 

We've learned that keeping wood dry is the key to preventing decay. We've also learned that barrier methods of preservation, coatings such as paints, varnishes & urethanes are effective at keeping wood dry as long as they are intact and well maintained. We have also learned that these are not practical or effective when wood is in direct contact with the soil, as with fence posts, piles or sills. Now we'll discuss chemical treatments that discourage fungi, microbes & bacteria. This post will deal with the common treatments and the next will deal with more natural methods. We are probably all familiar with the "preassure treated wood" commonly sold in the lumber store. The wood is placed in a pressure vessel and infused with chemicals that make the wood distasteful to our wood destroying enemies. These chemical treatments fall into some general categories like water or oil soluble, borates, LOSP etc. the most common are those that use the anti microbial properties of copper such as ACQ, CAC & CCA. These are the greenish tinged lumber in the big box stores. The treatments are done to various degrees which is why some say "ground contact" and others don't. These chemical treatments have proven very effective over the years and the chemical composition has been changed to reduce the toxicity. You should research the specific product you intend to use to know the level of toxicity & safe handling procedures. Leaching of these chemicals into the soil may be a concern, so I'll let you make your own decisions. Another common preservative are Borates- again the purpose is to make the wood unappetizing to fungi etc. Borates are a generally less toxic treatment, but are water soluble and will slowly leach out of the wood. LOSP stands for Light Organic Solvent Preservative - an example is Kerosene (also used to preserve burlap bags) and the last are oil based, most commonly Creosote. That black, tarry stuff on utility poles with its distinctive smell, it is not generally sold to the public any more. Be aware that if you use old poles or creosote treated wood, you should protect your skin. Creosote causes photosensitivity and just the saw dust from cutting up a pole can give you the worst sunburn you've ever had. All theses treatments work by discouraging fungi etc from eating the wood fibers the same way - toxicity. At this point I'll say a word about what a lot of you are thinking - "what about used motor oil"? Yes, soaking or painting motor oil on wood will discourage fungi & microbes and greatly increase the life of fence posts. Most municipalities, State & Federal policies DO NOT LIKE THIS! So it would be wrong for me to suggest that placing fence posts loosely in a metal barrel, filling with used motor oil and allowing to soak for a couple of months would be an excellent preservation method. Not only would such a procedure render the wood toxic, it also imparts considerable water repellency. But that would be frowned upon by the afore mentioned entities and viewed as an "oil spill" so I won't recommend it. Post # 4 will deal with natural preservation methods.

Wood Rot part 2-- Unicoi Ludd

Wood Rot Part 2. 

In part 1 you learned that the best, easiest & cheapest way to preserve wood is to keep it dry so that decay causing organisms cannot survive. Very useful information for rafters, joists and other off grade applications but what about ground contact like fence posts ? For the purposes of this discussion, we will assume that we are not living in an extremely dry or consistently cold environment. Since fence posts are in direct contact with the ground, the difficulty of preventing decay is tremendous. We have probably all seen fence posts held up by the fencing rather than the other way around. The reason fence posts rot at the base is simple- that "hot zone" of moisture, fungi & microbial life that we call top soil. The top 6 inches of soil are the hardest place to prevent decay. You may have experienced a post rotted thru at the base, but the top part perfectly fine & the end deepest in the ground still good. In the case of ground contact, keeping the wood dry is generally not practical. One question that is commonly asked is "can't I paint it"? The answer is - yes you can, but it won't do any good. Barrier methods of protecting wood, like paint, depend on the coating film being 100% intact. Their primary job is to repel water before it can be absorbed by the wood and permit decay organisms to live. Wood, in its ceaseless effort to match the environment swells & shrinks as it gains or losses moisture. Paints (and other coatings) have some flexibility to cope with that but all will eventually fail. Once the coating has failed moisture will be absorbed by the wood and the ever present fungi etc. will go to work. At this point the paint works against you because now it is acting like the bark of the tree and holding the moisture in. This is why you should re-paint your house regularly- to renew the protective film. So unless you're going to pull up your fence posts and repaint them frequently, don't plan on paints or urethanes to preserve fence posts. In post # 3 we will discuss chemical treatments that deter the decay causing organisms.

Wood Rot 101 and Part 1

Wood Rot 101- The question of how to prevent wood rot comes up a lot, usually as it relates to fence posts. I'm going to put up a short series of post about this subject. It will be the "Wood Rot for Dummies" short version of a complex subject. I'll try to explain the how & why wood decays & what you can do to prevent it. So stay tuned if you're interested.

 Rot part 1. Let's get started with the thing most people misunderstand- WATER DOES NOT MAKE WOOD ROT ! Now I can almost hear you screaming BULLSHIT Right now, but it's true. Wood rot, which from here on I will refer to as "decay" is not caused by wood being wet, all wood decay is caused by 1-Fungi & 2- microbial/ bacterial life. Like all life forms these require water to survive, so while water does not cause decay it is necessary that it be present for decay to occur. These decay causing life forms also require oxygen to live, but as a practical matter we cannot readily make an oxygen free fence, so we will focus on moisture. Wood is a HYDROSCOPIC Material, it "wants" water. It will always want moisture and will get it any way it can. In life a tree is about 50% water, after it has been felled it immediately begins to dry out and eventually assume the same moisture content as its surroundings- whether it gets moisture from the humidity in the air or absorbs it from the ground, it will always seek moisture. The image below is a pine beam approximately 1000 years old, note that it is not rotten. Why? Because the arid desert climate has kept it too dry for decay organisms to survive. It has assumed the moisture level of its environment. In the other images you will see a ship wreak from the 16th century, again not rotten. Though thoroughly saturated with water, the oxygen content & temperature are too low for the fungi etc to survive. So remember- moisture does not make wood decay, but it must be present for decay causing organisms to live. The easiest, cheapest & best way to preserve wood is to keep it dry. In the next post we will discuss other ways to combat decay.

-Unicoi Ludd